This is how I've been making the chili for tamales and burros, based on what I was taught by mamacita plus what I've learned along the way.
From John, I learned to use an assortment of chili, not just the California variety. The crops can vary from year to year, but I've been using an even amount of Guajillo, California, and New Mexico chiles. Also, I've made paste from Japones to bring up the intensity when the other chiles are too mild. Rather than boiling the pods to soften them, I started pressure cooking them so they really turn to mush; they seem to retain flavor.
For the meat, I've started using country cut pork ribs--they're easy to work with, not too lean, and are almost always on sale when I need them.
Ingredients
Chiles Pods (8 oz bags), choice of the following
Japones (picante, optional)
Directions
Prepare the chili paste
Tediously remove seeds and rinse the chili pods. Pressure cook for 45 minutes (up to two bags at a time) with enough water to cover the pods, then allow to cool. Add one bag's worth of pods, cumin, and garlic cloves to a blender or food processor, plus enough of the liquid from the pressure cooker to thoroughly process the mixture into a paste of component molecules.
Updated procedure for the chili paste. The previous procedure was based on trying to get the chilis as soft as possible so they would puree as soothly as possible. However, it reduced the flavor and spice accordingly, so here's the latest revision. First, cut off the stems of the pods and pour out the seeds, but don't worry about the ones that remain. Toast the chilis on a comal or skillet, usually about 30 seconds, flipping once. This brings out more flavor and softens them. Do not scorch. Add the toasted chilis to enough boiling water to cover them, using something to submerge them in the water. Cover and turn off the heat and let them rehydrate for at least 20 minutes. Add them to a blender along with about the cumin, garlic cloves and enough of the rehydrating liquid to allow blending. Blend thoroughly, starting on low speed and increasing to maximum speed. Depending on the efficiency of the blender, it may be necessary to strain the mixture through a sieve or chinois.
This can be made ahead of time, even frozen if necessary. Combine the pastes from the different chiles (feel free to vary the selection).
Prepare the meat
Trim excess fat off the pork and cut into chunks. Place the meat in a large stock pot (or pots) and add enough water to cover the meat and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat to a soft boil for 2 hours. Skim the gunky foam that floats to the top or the broth will be cloudy. Remove the meat from the broth (save the broth!!) and allow to cool. By hand, remove any bones, cartilage, and gooey fat from the meat, shredding the meat as you go (it will fall apart).
Put it all together
Heat a stock pot stock pot over medium heat. Add lard or oil (you can skim the lard from the broth, if you have time to let it cool) and make a roux with the flour, whisking until the flour is golden. Add a few ladles of the chili paste and whisk it with the roux. Add enough chili paste (a lot) to the pot to season the pork and whisk into the roux. Bring the mixture to a soft boil until it appears shiny--this additional cooking further enhances the chili taste. Add the meat, and thoroughly combine with the mixture. Add the remaining chili paste and enough broth to achieve desired thickness, and bring back to a soft boil. Add salt to taste. If necessary, reduce bitterness and enhance the chili flavor by adding vinegar 1 tsp at a time.
Allow the chili to cool, then refrigerate. The next day, slowly bring to a boil and check for salt.
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